Brick Lane is a conglomeration of diverse cultures that reflect the vibrant history of many groups of people. As I walked down the street, there were bubble tea shops, Chinese restaurants, clothing stores, and more. Tourists could shop for vintage vinyl records and clothes in an underground marketplace. They could also find books and small souvenir shops selling magnets and other knickknacks. It was the large selection of food that impressed me, though. I could see traces of Italian cuisine, Jewish bakeries, and Japanese sushi. Despite the variety, Brick Lane is best known for its curry restaurants, earning the label of the “curry capital of Europe.” Recipes for this famous dish originated with migrant communities from India. Sylheti seafarers, also called lascars, came to London through the East India Company. They had worked on the company’s ships as cooks and deckhands. Then, when their contracts with the company expired, they were left to fend for themselves in London. Many more Bengali men arrived in London as a result of India’s Partition in 1947. People seeking an escape from the violent religious war fled to East End where they found cheap labor and housing. Bengali migrants were not the only people looking for safety; Brick Lane became a haven for French Huguenots, Jewish refugees, and Irish people starving from the potato famine. This community was perfect for immigrants because of its proximity to the docks of London and the center of the city. Now, it’s a hidden tourist location that even attracts a tour group or two.

 

Later in the evening, restaurant owners and waiters stood outside their shops and enticed tourists and customers to grab a bite to eat. They even suggested having a second dinner. Although the idea of more curry was appetizing, the deeper meaning behind the marketing tactic was saddening. The attempt to attract more business exposes the difficulty of keeping curry houses alive as gentrification invades Brick Lane. Because of COVID-19, many Bengali restaurants closed as they were unable to accommodate pandemic mandates for outdoor seating and six feet social distancing. In addition, the increasing commercialization and implementation of chain restaurants and luxury retailers seen on Brick Lane’s northern end challenges the survival of family-owned businesses. About 62% of the curry restaurants have closed in the last 15 years. Those are not the only issues facing Brick Lane. Rising rent makes living in the area unaffordable, thus amplifying homelessness and deepening the wealth disparity. Located off the main street, Altab Ali’s Park is a significant example of disarray and deterioration. There was trash in the corners and cigarette butts littered on the ground. I was surprised that a memorial to Ali and symbol of Bengali unity was in such a state of decline. Nonetheless, Brick Lane still holds its charms, with the lively chatter of people and beautiful street art. I am in awe of the history that is preserved in small details, such as the Bengali-translated street signs and the metal arch in the colors of the Bangladesh flag. Brick Lane is certainly worth another visit for both its rich history and flavorful curry.

 

https://beyondbanglatown.org.uk/globe/making-home-the-world-in-brick-lane/

https://beyondbanglatown.org.uk/globe/future-of-bengali-brick-lane/