Brick Lane—also known as Banglatown—is in the East End of London and is home to the largest concentration of the Bangladeshi community in the United Kingdom. Originally, this section of London housed brick and tile manufacturers then it developed into breweries and warehouses.
We began our Brick Lane experience with a tour of the surrounding area including a park and a chapel before walking down the actual street that makes up Brick Lane. One of the most moving and impactful sections of the walking tour was visiting Altab Ali Park and the memorial that resides within the park itself. The park is not terribly large, but it is home to interesting physical manifestations of London’s history. The park was originally known as St. Mary’s Park—named after St. Mary’s Matfelon, which was the local chapel. This chapel was bombed during The Blitz and was destroyed. The ruins of the white chapel are still in the park today, which was is how the area earned its name Whitechapel. However, the park’s new name has much more cultural significance after 1998.
Altab Ali—a local textile worker—immigrated from Bangladesh to London, traveling through Brick Lane and what was the St. Mary’s Park on May 4th, 1978. That night, three teenagers—Roy Arnold, Carl Ludlow, and another boy—stabbed and killed Altab Ali in what is assumed to be a racially motivated crime. This murder sparked an intense reaction in the Bangladesh community of Brick Lane, as well as other allies advocating for change. In a powerful act of protest, the coffin of Altab Ali was marched all the way to Parliament on Downing Street. In 1998, the park was renamed after Altab Ali and a memorial was constructed in his honor. This park is a powerful representation about how communities can come together. It also shows why communities like Brick Lane are important—this kind of advocacy and support is harder to organize over physical space.
Another interesting aspect of Brick Lane that has been observed and is also very noticeable is the influence of gentrification. There are two ‘halves’ of Brick Lane—one side filled with Bangladeshi restaurants and the other side beginning to fill with breweries and vegan eateries. It was really interesting to walk through Brick Lane and see the slow shift between the sides. I also appreciated being able to witness the liveliness of the area firsthand and observe the different people working, living, and visiting Brick Lane. The restaurant the class went to—Sheba—was another valuable foray into the culture of the area. However, it was also important to remember and keep in mind the history of the area and how it could change over the next decade.
The opportunities that Study Abroad offers can be invaluable to the material learned in the lecture setting. Being able to experience the culture of the Bangladesh while in London was a a great way to understand the impacts of colonialism and the day-to-day life of the Indian Diaspora. It was a wonderful look into modern-culture, and I hope to continue looking for pieces of India wherever I go.
