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Finding Traces of Empire: St. Paul’s Cathedral, London

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Many travelers consider a trip to London, England incomplete without a visit to the historical St. Paul’s Cathedral. Although the current structure was only completed in 1711, fairly recent in England’s standards, the history of St. Paul’s Cathedral began in 604 A.D. when it was first consecrated, and the building considered ‘Old St. Paul’s’ was consecrated in 1240 A.D. However, the Great Fire of London destroyed Old St. Paul’s Cathedral and was later rebuilt to the one that stands today by architect, Christopher Wren. Over the years, countless important individuals and events have been celebrated in the Cathedral. Visitors can experience beautiful architecture, impressive art, and pieces of history. What I did not expect to find in St. Paul’s were the silent signs of empire, the continuously understated characteristics and actions of the British Empire over the years.

“Throughout its history, St. Paul’s has been involved in the fight against oppression and inequality – and many key figures in social justice have passed through our doors”. The statements found on the St. Paul’s website is used to describe their “Hidden Histories.” Although accurate to note the important figures of history that have graced St. Paul’s Cathedral, it is also important to address the other “hidden histories” of oppression that have instead been perpetuated by the British. The British colonization of India and the lucrative empire it formed in the subcontinent began in the early 17th century and continued into the middle of the 20th century. Colonizers ripped away at India’s existing structures and resources, and they perpetuated detrimental divisions among the diverse people in India. I found intriguing traces of the colonization of India, contrasting the space’s intended legacy, in the halls of St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Along the right side of the nave, I found possibly the most striking memorial standing in the Cathedral. The statue commemorates Thomas Fanshaw Middleton, the first Protestant Bishop of India. The message on the monument reads, “erected by the joint contribution of members of the society for promoting Christian knowledge and of the society for the propagation of the gospel.” On top of the pedestal stands a large and impressive statue of the Thomas Middleton. What is almost disturbing to look at is Thomas Middleton’s action that is frozen in time. One of his hands is raised up in the air while the other is rested on the head of a young girl knelt down in front of Middleton next to a young boy doing the same. By the looks of the clothes, hair, jewelry, and bare chests of the children, and the dichotomy between them and Middleton’s, it is obvious the children in the statue are Indians. Assumedly, they are being converted to Protestantism by Thomas Middleton. Beside the statue are two scenes along with verses from the Bible that add the frightening effect of the memorial. On the left, the scene reads underneath, “unto me men gave ear and waited and kept silence at my counsel, “ and on the right it reads “for I am a man under authority, having soldiers under me.”

Prior to Thomas Middleton and other Protestant’s arrivals, British colonization in India was solely controlled by the East India Company. They sought power through trade and military force. When the East India Company was required to renew their charter, England granted its extension by enforcing the sending of Protestant missionaries to proselytize India. It is important to note, however, that Protestantism never caught on in India. The forceful spreading of English beliefs only caused harm and extreme empirical powers in India. The statue of Thomas Middleton and the two Indian children in St. Paul’s Cathedral serves as both a haunting memory and a current reminder of Britain’s empirical effects on India.

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